Khumjungar Himal (6,759 meters) is a striking and little-known Himalayan peak located in the Upper Mustang region of Nepal, near the Tibetan border. As the highest mountain in the Damodar Himal range, Khumjungar rises above a dramatic glacial basin surrounded by rugged, arid landscapes that define the remote Trans-Himalayan environment.
Unlike Nepal’s more commercial climbing destinations, Khumjungar Himal remains rarely visited and largely untouched, offering a true wilderness expedition for experienced alpinists seeking solitude, technical challenge, and exploration beyond established routes. The mountain lies close to the Namta Khola Glacier, forming a distinctive horseshoe-shaped alpine setting with nearby high peaks and exposed ridgelines.
The Khumjungar Himal Expedition with Climb Himalayas is significant not only for its remoteness and technical character, but also because our team successfully completed the first ascent of Khumjungar Himal, establishing a safe and viable climbing route on this previously unclimbed peak. This achievement places the expedition among Nepal’s rare exploratory ascents and gives climbers the opportunity to follow a route pioneered by experienced Himalayan professionals.
Climbing Khumjungar Himal requires solid technical mountaineering skills, including mixed rock, snow, and ice climbing, glacier travel, and fixed-rope movement at high altitude. While the altitude is lower than 7,000m peaks, the remoteness, terrain complexity, and lack of infrastructure make this a serious expedition suitable only for well-prepared climbers.
The expedition approach passes through Upper Mustang’s traditional villages, including Tange, offering deep cultural immersion in a region strongly influenced by Tibetan heritage. Ancient monasteries, stone settlements, and high-desert landscapes add a cultural dimension to the physical challenge of the climb.
Khumjungar Himal is ideal for climbers seeking:
- A first ascent or exploratory-style experience
- A technically engaging 6,000m+ peak
- A remote alternative to crowded Himalayan routes
- Preparation for larger alpine or 7,000m objectives
