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48 Days

Dhaulagiri Expedition (8,167m)

Price per person $20000
Altitude 8176 M
Difficulty Difficult
Group size 2-10
Climb Style Normal

Overview

Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters) is the seventh-highest mountain in the world, rising dramatically in north-central Nepal. Known as the “White Mountain”—derived from the Sanskrit words Dhavala (white) and Giri (mountain)—Dhaulagiri is one of the most formidable and rewarding 8,000-meter expeditions in the Himalayas.

Dhaulagiri was first successfully climbed on May 13, 1960, by a Swiss-Austrian expedition led by Kurt Diemberger, alongside Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, and Albin Schelbert. Since then, the mountain has earned a reputation for its remote approach, complex terrain, and serious objective hazards.

Although sometimes described as comparatively straightforward in technical grading among Nepal’s 8,000-meter peaks, Dhaulagiri should not be considered easy. The mountain demands exceptional physical endurance, disciplined acclimatization, strong glacier and ice-climbing skills, and the mental resilience required for prolonged exposure in an isolated, high-risk environment. It is best suited for experienced high-altitude climbers seeking a serious, less-commercialized Himalayan challenge.

The Dhaulagiri Expedition with Climb Himalayas follows a classic expedition approach, led by an IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain guide and supported by an experienced high-altitude Sherpa team. The expedition emphasizes safety, structured acclimatization, and realistic summit strategy while respecting the unpredictable nature of the mountain.

 

 

Itinerary

Day 01

Arrival in Kathmandu (altitude approx. 1,300 m). Meet the expedition team at the airport and transfer to the hotel. Rest and recovery after international travel, followed by a light briefing on the upcoming high-altitude expedition, logistics, and equipment preparation.

Day 02

Official expedition briefing at the Ministry, followed by a thorough check of personal and group climbing equipment with the expedition leader. Final preparations and documentation review. In the evening, enjoy a welcome dinner featuring traditional local cuisine, offering a relaxed introduction to the expedition and team.

Day 03

Final expedition preparations in Kathmandu, including last-minute gear adjustments, equipment checks, and logistics coordination. Free time to explore local streets, traditional markets, heritage areas, and cultural landmarks, offering a relaxed cultural experience before departure to the mountains.

Day 04

Drive from Kathmandu to Beni (approx. 900 meters), the gateway town for the Dhaulagiri region. The scenic overland journey follows river valleys, terraced hillsides, and rural landscapes, offering a gradual transition from urban surroundings to the Himalayan foothills. This long but rewarding drive is an essential logistical approach for major Himalayan expeditions and allows the team to begin acclimatizing while moving closer to the mountains.

Day 05

Drive from Beni to Darbang (altitude approx. 1,100 m), the traditional roadhead for expeditions in the Dhaulagiri region. The scenic drive takes around 3–4 hours, following river valleys, terraced hillsides, and remote mountain settlements.

From Darbang, begin the trek toward Baskot (approx. 1,500 m). The trail passes through cultivated farmland, forested slopes, and small villages, offering a gentle start to the trekking phase. The walk takes approximately 3–4 hours, allowing for gradual acclimatization as the expedition moves deeper into the Himalayan foothills.

Day 06

Trek from Baskot to Bagar on a classic Himalayan approach route used by major high-altitude expeditions. The trail climbs steadily through subtropical forests, terraced hillsides, and remote mountain settlements, following river valleys deeper into the Dhaulagiri region. This section of the trek offers a balanced mix of scenic walking and gradual elevation gain, making it ideal for acclimatization.

Walking time is approximately 5–6 hours, allowing the body to adapt naturally while experiencing authentic mountain landscapes and traditional village life. This day marks a transition from lowland trekking into more rugged alpine terrain, setting the foundation for the higher and more demanding stages of the expedition ahead.

 
 
Day 07

Trek from Bagar to Dhovan along a remote Himalayan trail commonly used for major mountaineering expeditions. The route follows narrow paths through dense forests, steep river gorges, and rugged terrain, gradually gaining altitude as the landscape becomes more alpine.

The walk takes approximately 6–7 hours and is physically demanding in places, with ascents and descents that test endurance while supporting steady acclimatization. Dhovan sits in a secluded mountain setting and serves as an important staging point before entering higher alpine zones on the approach to base camp.

Day 08

Trek from Dhovan to Sallaghari through increasingly rugged alpine terrain, following a remote Himalayan trail used by classic high-altitude expeditions. The route involves steady ascents through pine and rhododendron forests, rocky sections, and narrow valleys, with dramatic mountain scenery unfolding along the way.

The trek takes approximately 6–7 hours and represents a key acclimatization stage as the expedition moves deeper into the high mountain environment. Sallaghari is a quiet alpine campsite surrounded by steep valley walls and towering peaks, offering an authentic wilderness experience and preparing climbers for the approach to base camp and higher elevations ahead.

Day 09

Trek from Sallaghari to Italian Base Camp on one of the most iconic approach routes used for major Himalayan expeditions. The trail ascends steadily through high alpine terrain, crossing rocky paths, glacial streams, and open valleys with increasingly dramatic mountain scenery.

The walk takes approximately 6–7 hours, with noticeable altitude gain as the expedition enters the true high-altitude zone. Italian Base Camp is a historic and strategically important camp used by climbers approaching major peaks in the region. Surrounded by glaciers, icefalls, and towering Himalayan walls, this camp provides an excellent location for rest, acclimatization, and preparation before moving higher toward base camp and advanced climbing terrain.

This stage marks a significant transition from trekking to expedition-style mountaineering.

Day 10

A full rest and acclimatization day at Italian Base Camp to support safe altitude adaptation and recovery after the approach trek. Light walks around camp and optional acclimatization hikes are recommended to promote blood oxygen adjustment and prepare the body for higher elevations.

During the day, the IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain instructor conducts practical theory sessions covering high-altitude safety, expedition strategy, rope systems, glacier travel, and crevasse rescue fundamentals. These sessions reinforce technical skills, improve team coordination, and ensure all members are aligned with expedition protocols before moving toward higher camps.

The day is designed to balance physical rest with technical preparation, strengthening both acclimatization and mountaineering readiness for the next phase of the expedition.

Day 11

Trek from Italian Base Camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp, entering the true high-altitude expedition zone beneath one of the world’s highest mountains. The route follows rugged glacial terrain, moraines, and rocky trails with increasing exposure to alpine conditions and dramatic Himalayan scenery.

The trek takes approximately 5–6 hours, with steady altitude gain and spectacular views of surrounding icefalls, glaciers, and towering Himalayan faces. Reaching Dhaulagiri Base Camp marks a major milestone of the expedition, where the focus shifts fully to high-altitude mountaineering, acclimatization rotations, and summit strategy under IFMGA-led guidance.

This day represents the transition from approach trekking to full expedition climbing on an iconic 8000-meter peak.

Day 12-42

The climbing period on Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters) is the core phase of the expedition, combining structured acclimatization rotations, high-altitude summit training, and the final summit attempt. This period is carefully planned to maximize safety, physical adaptation, and summit success on one of the most challenging 8,000-meter peaks.

Climbers complete multiple acclimatization rotations between Base Camp and higher camps, progressively ascending to increasing altitudes. These rotations involve carrying loads, establishing and using fixed ropes, and spending nights at higher camps before descending for recovery. This process allows the body to adapt to extreme altitude while building strength and confidence on the route.

Throughout the rotation phase, summit-specific training is conducted under the supervision of an IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain guide. Training focuses on high-altitude movement, fixed-line techniques, crampon and ice-axe efficiency, pacing and energy management, oxygen system use, cold-weather survival, and emergency response procedures.

Once acclimatization is complete and suitable weather conditions align, the expedition enters the summit push phase, which is carried out during this same climbing period. The IFMGA-led team closely monitors weather forecasts, snow stability, and individual climber readiness to identify the safest and most favorable summit window. The summit ascent typically begins from the highest camp and involves a long, sustained climb in extreme alpine conditions.

This combined period of rotations, training, and summit attempt is essential for preparing climbers both physically and mentally, ensuring they are fully equipped to attempt the summit of Mount Dhaulagiri with confidence and discipline.

Day 43

Descend from Dhaulagiri Base Camp to Yak Kharka, following a rugged high-altitude trail across glacial moraines, rocky terrain, and alpine valleys. This section of the trek offers impressive mountain scenery and a gradual loss of elevation, supporting recovery after the intense climbing period.

The trek takes approximately 6–7 hours and marks the transition from expedition climbing back to trekking terrain. Yak Kharka provides a comfortable alpine setting for rest and rehydration while continuing the journey out of the high Himalaya.

Day 44

Trek from Yak Kharka to Marpha, descending steadily through alpine valleys, glacial riverbeds, and open landscapes as the terrain transitions from high-altitude wilderness to traditional mountain settlements. This scenic route offers expansive views of surrounding peaks and a comfortable loss of elevation, supporting recovery after the expedition’s climbing phase.

The trek takes approximately 5–6 hours, leading into the culturally rich village of Marpha, known for its traditional stone houses, narrow lanes, and relaxed mountain atmosphere. This day marks a rewarding return to lower elevations and a smooth transition from expedition trekking to the final stages of the journey.

Day 45

Scenic drive from Marpha to Pokhara, descending through river valleys, mountain roads, and changing landscapes from alpine terrain to lakeside surroundings. The journey takes approximately 6–7 hours, offering a comfortable transition back to lower altitude after the expedition and trek.

Upon arrival in Pokhara, enjoy a celebratory party to mark the successful completion of the expedition. Relax, unwind, and celebrate achievements with the team in a vibrant lakeside setting—an ideal conclusion to a demanding high-altitude adventure.

 
 
Day 46

Take a scenic domestic flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu, offering final aerial views of the Himalayan landscape. The flight duration is approximately 25–30 minutes.

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to the hotel for rest and recovery. Free time to relax, enjoy the city atmosphere, or prepare for departure after the completion of the expedition.

Day 47

A free day in Kathmandu focused on recovery and well-being after the expedition. Enjoy optional rejuvenation activities such as yoga sessions, therapeutic massage, and sound healing, designed to relax the body, restore balance, and support post-expedition recovery.

In the evening, experience a traditional cultural show accompanied by a farewell dinner, celebrating the journey with local music, dance, and cuisine. This day offers a perfect blend of wellness, relaxation, and cultural immersion to conclude the Himalayan expedition.

Day 48

Transfer from the hotel to the international airport for final departure. The expedition concludes with assistance for airport check-in and farewells to the team, marking the end of a successful Himalayan mountaineering journey

Cost Inclusion & Exclusion

Ground Transportation & Logistics

  • Private airport pick-up and drop-off with air-conditioned vehicles

  • Overland transfer from Kathmandu to Beni by bus with trekking staff and expedition equipment

  • Overland transfer from Beni to Darbang by bus with trekking staff and climbing gear

  • Overland transfer from Marpha to Pokhara by bus with trekking staff and expedition equipment


Domestic Flight & Baggage Allowance

  • Domestic flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu including airport taxes

  • Up to 15 kg baggage allowance per person for domestic flight, including personal trekking and climbing gear


Accommodation During Expedition

  • Four-star category hotel accommodation in Kathmandu

  • Best available local mountain lodges during the trek on twin-sharing basis

  • Fully equipped tented camp accommodation at base camp (2 members per tent)


Meals & Hydration

  • Daily breakfast at the hotel in Kathmandu

  • Three meals per day during the trek and base camp stay (breakfast, lunch, and dinner)

  • Two liters of boiled drinking water per member per day for trekking and climbing

  • Welcome and farewell dinner with expedition staff


Permits, Fees & Compliance

  • Peak climbing permit fee

  • National park or conservation area entry fees

  • Mandatory insurance for all local trekking and climbing staff

  • Liaison officer fee including insurance, food allowance, and transportation

  • Garbage management fee and environmental deposit


Supporting Staff up to Base Camp

  • Required number of porters to carry expedition loads to and from base camp

  • One licensed, English-speaking trekking guide during the trek and base camp phase

  • Experienced base camp cook

  • Required kitchen helpers and support staff


High-Altitude Support (Above Base Camp)

  • One professional high-altitude Sherpa per climber (1:1 ratio)

  • High-altitude Sherpa wages, food, insurance, flights, and equipment allowance included


Base Camp Equipment & Facilities

  • Individual sleeping tent for each expedition member

  • Foam sleeping mattress for insulation and comfort

  • Dining tent, kitchen tent, shower tent, and toilet tent

  • Complete kitchen setup with fuel and utensils

  • Tables and chairs at base camp

  • Solar lighting system for base camp

  • Comprehensive expedition first-aid and medical kit

  • Gas heater for dining tent use


High-Altitude Climbing Equipment

  • High-altitude tents for climbers and Sherpas

  • High-altitude food for summit rotation and climbing days

  • Technical climbing gear including fixed ropes, main ropes, snow bars, snow shovels, carabiners, and protection equipment

  • Supplemental oxygen supply: four oxygen cylinders per climber and two per high-altitude Sherpa

  • One oxygen mask and regulator set per climber and Sherpa

  • Satellite phone and walkie-talkie communication system

  • High-altitude cooking equipment including gas canisters, burners, and cooking pots

 

 

  • All personal expenses including alcoholic beverages, bottled drinks, telephone calls, laundry services, internet, and Wi-Fi

  • Personal travel, accident, medical, and emergency evacuation insurance

  • Personal climbing gear, mountaineering equipment, and high-altitude clothing

  • International airfare and airport taxes

  • Entry visa fees

  • International air cargo or excess baggage charges

  • Tips and gratuities for guides, porters, and high-altitude Sherpa

  • Summit bonus of USD 1,500 payable to high-altitude Sherpa

  • Extra nights of hotel accommodation in Kathmandu beyond the scheduled itinerary

  • Special permits for filming, professional cameras, or drone usage

  • Any additional services or costs not mentioned in the “Price Includes” section

Travel Notes

Expedition Style & Leadership

This expedition follows a traditional expedition-style ascent, combining progressive acclimatization, load carries, and fixed-rope sections through technical terrain. Leadership by an IFMGA/UIAGM-certified guide ensures international guiding standards, disciplined risk management, and professional decision-making at extreme altitude.

The guiding structure prioritizes climber safety, effective acclimatization, and flexible summit planning based on weather and individual performance.


Route Overview

The standard route ascends via the North-East Ridge, approached through a long circuit around the mountain via French Col (5,334 m) and North-East Col. The route involves:

  • Extensive glacier travel

  • Crevasse navigation

  • Steep snow and ice slopes

  • Fixed-rope sections in exposed and avalanche-prone zones

Multiple high camps are established above base camp to support acclimatization and a controlled summit push from the highest camp.


Acclimatization & Physical Demands

Dhaulagiri is widely regarded as one of the most physically demanding 8,000-meter peaks. Long summit days, deep snow, and sustained effort at altitude require excellent conditioning and stamina.

Key demands include:

  • Structured acclimatization rotations

  • Strong cardiovascular endurance

  • Ability to function in cold, low-oxygen environments

  • Mental resilience for long summit pushes (often 12–16 hours)


Safety & Risk Management

Safety is a core priority throughout the expedition. Under IFMGA leadership, the expedition follows strict protocols for:

  • Continuous risk assessment

  • Weather and route condition monitoring

  • Rope discipline and movement systems

  • Emergency response planning and communication

Each climber must carry comprehensive high-altitude insurance covering medical treatment and emergency evacuation, and must follow guide instructions at all times.


Approach & Remoteness

The expedition begins with an overland journey from Kathmandu to Beni Bazaar, followed by a remote trek through the Kali Gandaki region toward base camp. The approach offers exceptional views of the Kali Gandaki Gorge and surrounding Himalayan landscapes.

Dhaulagiri’s isolation means fewer climbers, limited rescue options, and a true expedition atmosphere requiring self-reliance and strong teamwork.


Who This Expedition Is For

The Dhaulagiri Expedition is suitable for:

  • Experienced mountaineers with prior 7,000–8,000 m experience

  • Climbers seeking a serious, less-commercialized 8,000-meter objective

  • Alpinists preparing for elite Himalayan challenges

  • Mountaineers who value IFMGA-led leadership and structured expedition logistics

This expedition is not suitable for first-time high-altitude climbers.


Why Choose Climb Himalayas for Dhaulagiri

  • Expedition led by IFMGA/UIAGM-certified mountain guide

  • Experienced high-altitude Sherpa support

  • Structured acclimatization and summit strategy

  • Strong focus on safety, preparation, and expedition integrity

  • Responsible and professional Himalayan operations


A True 8,000-Meter Himalayan Challenge

Climbing Mount Dhaulagiri is a defining achievement in high-altitude mountaineering. Its scale, isolation, and demanding conditions require complete commitment and respect for the mountain.

Under expert leadership from Climb Himalayas, this expedition offers a professional, well-structured opportunity to attempt one of the world’s great Himalayan summits—where success is measured not only by reaching the top, but by climbing responsibly and returning safely.

Book your adventure today

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