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49 Days

Mt. Makalu Expedition

Price per person $30000
Altitude 8485m
Difficulty Extreme
Group size 1-15
Climb Style Normal

Overview

Mount Makalu, located in the grand Mahalangur Himalayas, stands as one of the most impressive peaks in the world. Situated on the border between Nepal and Tibet, this lofty giant is positioned 23 km (14 miles) east-southeast of the legendary Mount Everest. With a towering height of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet), Mount Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, offering a challenging yet captivating adventure for mountaineers from all over the globe. The first successful ascent of Mount Makalu was achieved on May 15, 1955, by the French mountaineers Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray, whose expedition paved the way for future climbers to attempt the summit. The mountain, known for its steep slopes, rugged terrain, and unpredictable weather conditions, demands both skill and perseverance from anyone who dares to scale its heights. Over the years, Mount Makalu has become one of the most highly desired peaks for those looking to tackle an 8,000-meter summit.

Climbers typically approach Makalu via two primary routes: the southeast and the northwest ridge. Each of these routes offers a unique set of challenges and rewards, requiring climbers to navigate glaciers, icefalls, and rock ridges. While both routes are demanding, they provide different perspectives of the mountain’s magnificence and the surrounding landscapes. The southeast route is often considered the more popular choice, as it offers a relatively easier approach to the summit compared to the more technical northwest ridge.

For those who are eager to take on this mighty mountain, the ideal seasons for an ascent are spring and autumn. However, spring is usually the preferred choice among climbers due to its more favorable weather conditions and stable snow coverage. The spring months provide better snow and ice conditions, which are crucial for a safer and more successful climb. During this time, the weather is generally more predictable, allowing climbers to make steady progress towards the summit.

The climb itself is not for the faint of heart. The journey begins at lower altitudes with relatively easy glacier traverses, allowing climbers to acclimatize and prepare for the more strenuous sections that follow. As climbers ascend higher, they are met with increasingly steep terrain, including icy slopes and snow-covered ridges. The climb towards Makalu La, a significant pass on the route, tests the strength and stamina of climbers as they navigate through technical ice and snow climbing. The final stretch towards the summit is equally demanding, as it involves a rock ridge ascent above Camp IV, which requires both endurance and technical skill.

While Mount Makalu presents significant challenges, it also offers numerous rewards. The mountain's snow-covered slopes provide climbers with stunning views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, making every step of the journey worth the effort. Despite its reputation for being a steep and difficult climb, the expedition is still accessible to those who are determined to push themselves to their limits. Makalu’s consistent snow coverage during the spring season reduces the risk of avalanches, icefalls, and rockfalls, ensuring a safer environment for climbers to reach the summit.

Climb Himalayas, a trusted expedition company, ensures climbers' safety throughout the entire journey. They provide crucial oxygen support above 7,200 meters, which is essential for maintaining energy levels at high altitudes. Their team of experienced guides, who are well-versed in the challenges of Mount Makalu, accompany climbers every step of the way, offering expert advice and guidance to ensure success. Fixed ropes are installed along the route, providing climbers with additional safety and stability when navigating technical sections of the climb. Moreover, Climb Himalayas ensures that the daily climbing schedules are carefully planned to match each climber's abilities, ensuring that the ascent remains challenging yet manageable.

The expedition is designed to allow for steady acclimatization, reducing the risk of altitude sickness and other complications. The well-structured daily schedules also ensure that climbers can rest sufficiently and recover from the physical effort of the climb. This makes the expedition suitable for experienced mountaineers as well as beginners attempting their first 8,000-meter peak.

Climbing Mount Makalu is more than just a physical challenge; it is an unforgettable experience that offers an opportunity for self-discovery and reflection. The breathtaking views from the summit, the sense of accomplishment, and the friendship formed among climbers and guides make it a journey worth undertaking. For those who are ready to take on the heights of Mount Makalu, the reward is not only in reaching the top but also in the journey itself, which will be imprinted in their memories forever.

An expedition to Mount Makalu promises to test one’s limits, but it also offers the chance to conquer one of the highest and most majestic mountains in the world, offering climbers an experience of a lifetime.

Itinerary

Day 1

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) and transfer to the hotel.

Day 2

Attend an expedition briefing, check gear, and finalize permits.

Day 3

Take a 35-minute flight to Tumlingtar, followed by a 4-hour drive to Num.

Day 4

Trek for 5 to 6 hours through forests and terraced fields.

Day 5

Trek for 6 to 7 hours, gradually ascending towards the village.

Day 6

Trek for 6 to 7 hours, passing through lush forests.

Day 7

Rest and short hikes for altitude adaptation.

Day 8

Trek for 6 to 7 hours, crossing Shipton La Pass (4,200m).

Day 9

Trek for 5 to 6 hours through alpine landscapes.

Day 10

Trek for 5 to 6 hours, enjoying views of Makalu.

Day 11

Trek for 4 to 5 hours across rugged terrain.

Day 12

Trek for 5 to 6 hours reaching the main expedition base.

Day 13-40

Acclimatization, rotations, and summit attempt.

Day 41

Trek down from base camp after the summit.

Day 42

Trek for 7 to 8 hours, descending through glaciers.

Day 43

Trek for 6 to 7 hours, retracing the route.

Day 44

Trek for 6 to 7 hours through rhododendron forests.

 

Day 45

Trek for 7 to 8 hours, passing small villages.

Day 46

Trek for 4 hours, followed by a 4-hour drive.

Day 47

Take a 35-minute flight from Tumlingtar and transfer to the hotel.

Day 48

Rest and explore the city.

 

Day 49

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for departure.

Route Map

Cost Inclusion & Exclusion

Transportation Services:

  • Pick up and drop off for international & domestic flights as per the itinerary.

  • Both-ways domestic flight (KTM – Tumlingtar – KTM) Airport tax.

  • Land and Air domestic transportation and cargo for the entire expedition crew.

Accommodation & Dining:

  • Four nights in a Kathmandu hotel with a bed & breakfast plan (2 nights pre-expedition, 2 nights post-expedition).

  • Welcome dinner at a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu.

  • Freshly cooked meals (Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner) with a variety of cuisines served at Base Camp.

Expedition Support:

  • Climbing Mountaineering Royalty Fee and all necessary fees for Mount Makalu ascent.

  • Makalu Summit route fixing charge.

  • Garbage Management and Disposal Fee.

  • Government Liaison officer with daily wages, equipment, food, insurance, and round-trip airfare.

Catering and Supplies:

  • Regular supply of fresh green vegetables, meat, fruits, juice, and drinks at Base Camp via helicopters.

  • Personal Tent (Kailas/Box Tent), Mattress, and Pillow provided for each member at Base Camp.

  • Common Equipment at Makalu Base Camp, including Dining Tent, Kitchen Tent, and other essentials.

  • High Camp Services for C1-C4, including High Tent, Shovel, Rope, EPI Gas, Gas Burner, and High Food.

Communication and Safety:

  • Walkie-Talkie for communication between Base Camp and Mountain.

  • Satellite phone for emergency use at $3 per minute.

  • Weather forecast services during the entire expedition.

Oxygen Supplies:

  • Allocation of 4 bottles (4ltr.) for each member and 2 bottles for each climbing Sherpa.

  • Summit Mask & Regulator set provided for each member and climbing Sherpa.

  • Sufficient backup oxygen bottles and Mask Regulator sets available at Base Camp (Chargeable as per use).

Emergency Support:

  • Standby climbing Sherpa and helicopter for emergency rescue and replacement.

  • Climb Himalayas’s Duffel Bag provided if required.

  • First Aid Medical Kit.

  • Farewell and Administrative:

  • Farewell dinner at a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu.

  • Government Taxes and Company Service Charge.

  • Mount Makalu summit certificate after the successful summit.

Travel Essentials:

  • International flight tickets.

  • Nepal Entry Visa fee (To be applied for 90 days).

  • Bank/wire transfer fees (if applicable).

Meals and Personal Expenses:

  • Lunch & Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.

  • Personal Travel Insurance and High-Altitude Insurance (Accident, Medical, and Emergency Rescue Evacuation).

  • Personal Trekking and Climbing Gears.

  • Personal Expenses: Phone calls, internet, battery recharge, laundry, alcoholic beverages, bottled and canned beverages, specialty coffee or espresso drinks during the journey to Base Camp and return.

Additional Costs:

  • Drone & Special filming permit.

  • Summit Bonus for Climbing Sherpa (US $1500.00).

  • Tips for Base Camp Cook and Kitchen staff (US $300).

  • Any other service cost not included in the Cost Includes section.

Travel Notes

Key Attractions

Makalu-Barun National Park: A UNESCO-listed conservation area rich in biodiversity, home to over 3,000 species of plants and more than 400 species of birds, including the endangered red panda. This pristine park offers an opportunity to explore unspoiled nature in one of the most remote and stunning regions of Nepal.

Stunning Mountain Views: Along the trek, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of some of the world's tallest peaks, including Makalu (8,485m), Everest (8,848m), Lhotse (8,516m), and Kanchenjunga (8,586m). The panorama of these majestic mountains is one of the highlights of the expedition.

Remote Villages: Experience the unique cultures of the Sherpa and Rai communities in the remote villages along the trail. Villages like Chichila and Num offer an authentic glimpse into the life of mountain-dwelling communities, where you can learn about their traditional customs, hospitality, and lifestyle.

High-Altitude Landscapes: The trek to Makalu Base Camp passes through an incredibly diverse range of landscapes. From dense subtropical forests and vibrant rhododendron groves to alpine meadows and rugged, high-altitude rocky terrains, every day offers new and unique views of nature in its purest form.

Makalu Base Camp: Sitting at an altitude of 4,870 meters, Base Camp offers the first panoramic views of Makalu itself. It's the perfect location to acclimatize and witness the breathtaking beauty of the mountain up close, with a direct view of the steep, snow-covered slopes leading to the summit.

Advanced Base Camp and Higher Camps: As you progress to the Advanced Base Camp at 5,600 meters, the landscape becomes more dramatic, offering unparalleled views of the surrounding peaks. The higher camps offer different perspectives and vistas of the mountains and glaciers, creating a sense of awe with every ascent.

Technical Climbing Sections: The climb to Makalu involves several technical challenges, including glacier crossings, ice climbing, and navigating steep rock ridges. The dramatic landscape of icefalls, glaciers, and high-altitude terrain makes this expedition particularly thrilling for seasoned climbers.

Glacier Views: The Barun Glacier is one of the key attractions of the trek, a massive river of ice flowing from Makalu. Crossing it requires careful navigation and provides an up-close view of the ever-changing dynamics of glacial landscapes, crevasses, and icefalls.

Mountain Flora and Fauna: The route through Makalu-Barun National Park allows trekkers to observe rare species of plants, such as the Himalayan blue poppy and wild orchids. The park is also home to wildlife such as snow leopards, red pandas, and a variety of bird species, making it a haven for nature lovers and photographers.

Incredible Sunrises and Sunsets: Every morning and evening on the trek provides magical moments. As the sun rises and sets behind towering peaks like Makalu, the light casts stunning colors on the mountains, offering perfect opportunities for photographers and those seeking a peaceful connection with nature.

Cultural Immersion: Along the trail, you’ll encounter Buddhist monasteries and prayer wheels in the remote villages, providing a deeper cultural experience. The influence of Tibetan Buddhism is visible in the local architecture, prayer flags, and rituals, adding a spiritual dimension to the physical challenges of the trek.

Makalu’s Summit: For climbers reaching the summit of Makalu, the view from the top is one of the most rewarding in the world. From this vantage point, you can see the world's highest peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Kanchenjunga, all from an unparalleled perspective, making it a climber's dream come true.

Preparation

  • Engage in physical training that includes strength, endurance, and altitude training to prepare for challenging terrains.

  • Undergo a thorough medical check-up, and ensure acclimatization schedules are in place to prevent altitude sickness.

  • Secure necessary permits, including climbing and trekking permits for Nepal, and verify passport and visa requirements.

  • Obtain comprehensive travel insurance, ensuring coverage for high-altitude climbing, medical emergencies, and evacuation.

  • Ensure climbing gear meets Makalu expedition standards, including cold-weather clothing, crampons, ice axes, ropes, and harnesses.

  • Be prepared for the remote nature of the trek, including extended periods in harsh conditions, with proper mental and physical resilience.

  • Maintain flexibility for possible weather-related delays or changes, particularly due to seasonal variations (spring or autumn).

  • Carry adequate communication devices, such as radios or satellite phones, to stay connected with the base camp and support team.

  • Be ready for glacier travel and technical sections, ensuring all equipment is well-maintained and checked, including fixed ropes.

  • Keep high-calorie, easy-to-carry food, and stay hydrated during the trek and climb to sustain energy levels in high altitudes.

  • Use supplemental oxygen above 7,200 meters to help combat fatigue and altitude-related illnesses.

  • Practice responsible trekking and climbing practices, following "Leave No Trace" principles to minimize environmental impact.

  • Prepare for emergencies with a clear evacuation plan and ensure access to helicopter rescue services in case of emergencies.

  • Travel light, focusing on essential gear only, to ensure better mobility and adaptability in the expedition's remote areas.

  • Work closely with experienced guides and Sherpas who are familiar with Makalu’s routes, technical challenges, and risks.

  • Regularly check weather forecasts for potential storms, and adjust schedules or routes accordingly to ensure safety.

  • Be mentally prepared for the challenges of remote mountain expeditions, where weather and conditions can change unexpectedly.

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